How To Help...

Finding professional help for an ill or injured wild bird can often be a time consuming, frustrating process. Unfortunately, most veterinarians receive little training in avian medicine and have little or no experience with wild birds. We highly recommend that a licensed wild bird rehabilitator be contacted immediately. In the meantime, there are many things you can do to increase the bird's chance of survival.


STRESS MANAGEMENT

Stress is a complex physiological component that must be considered above all else when dealing with wild birds. Often, the first indication that a bird is overstressed, is death. Stress occurs each time a bird is handled, treated, or in any way disturbed.

Signs of severe stress in an adult bird can be nervousness or depression. A nervous bird may appear alert and active but refuse to eat, often having abnormal stools. A depressed bird has fluffed plumage and a droopy posture and refuses to eat. To reduce the stress the bird MUST be kept WARM, DARK AND QUIET.


EXAMINATION AND ASSESSMENT

Although the primary injury may appear obvious, other complications may also exist. Check for critical problems such as fractures, wounds, starvation and dehydration. Begin with a VISUAL EXAMINATION, which is less stressful on the bird. Observation can provide much needed information. Then, if necessary, a PHYSICAL EXAMINATION can be performed. By providing this information to the rehabber, they will be able to determine the severity of the condition and prepare for the bird's arrival.


STABILIZATION

It may be necessary to stabilize a wing or leg fracture. Fractures should be immobilized with a temporary wrap to prevent further damage ( only when necessary due to the high stress factor). Rolled cotton gauze or self clinging vet wrap is recommended. NEVER use adhesive bandages or tape on a bird.

Supplemental heat is imperative for most sick birds since their normal body temperature is 107 - 108 degrees. An ambient temperature of 85 - 90 degrees is required. Do Not Overheat. Place a cardboard box halfway on a heating pad on the lowest setting.

Wounds may be cleaned using Q-Tips and a mild soapy water. Do not wet the whole bird, merely the area that is needed. A triple antibiotic ointment (Neosporin) may be applied to the wound, when necessary. Remember, this is for immediate, temporary care only, until the bird can be transported to an experienced care giver.

Liquid should NEVER be administered directly into a bird's mouth. If the bird has been without fluids for considerable time and appears dehydrated, you can use Pedialyte or Gatorade by dripping a drop at a time from the end of your finger, onto the outside of the bird's beak. Repeat this process frequently until a wild bird rehabilitator can be reached. Dehydration is a life threatening condition.

A cardboard box is acceptable for temporary housing. Line the bottom with newspapers and provide a branch or something for the bird's feet to grasp. If the bird is not standing wrap in a soft cloth and position in an upright sitting position. Provide a small, shallow container for water. NEVER place a wild bird in a small domestic bird cage. The bars can damage feathers rendering the bird non-releasable for up to a year.


FINDING HELP

To obtain a list of licensed wild bird rehabilitators in your area, you may want to begin by calling your local State Parks and Wildlife Department. You may also call area zoos, avian veterinarian clinics, city animal control, Humane Society or Nature Center to request a referral to the closest rehabber.



                 REMEMBER: WARM, SUBDUED LIGHTING, AND QUIET!

 

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